Tomorrow we will arrive at Kennedy Meadows, the base camp of PCT hikers before they head into the Sierra Mtns. This is where gear changes are made - warmer clothes, crampons, ice axes, bear boxes, new footwear. This is where you repair or replace broken things. There will be a big shift in the pace. Most people will slow down because the grades of climbs are steep and relentless. Weeks of this grind slows down most hikers. Some extraordinary people can maintain 30 or 40 mile days but they are the exception not the norm. Tidy and Dirty are excited to be in their home turf. We've lost Topo but expect to see her again. She may hike further north to avoid snow then return later in the season. DG and TC will continue plodding along come what may.
We have had some exciting weather. Two days ago we were rained and hailed on. It was fun and exciting for three hours but by the fourth hour our two hikers were a tad wet and weary. They were greatly taken care of however because ten minutes before they put up their tent (in a lovely secluded shoulder jutting off from the mountain they were climbing) the rain stopped so they put up a dry tent. They had passed many tented hikers who had gotten too cold or wet to continue. For once they wereout in front of just about everyone. They managed to continue in the rain for four hours and stayed dry and warm enough while others fell around them. Hooray for experience and good equipment.
Today was one of our later starts. We have been doing a lot of 20 mile days and are feeling it. Our appetites are out of control ; we are always hungry even after we eat. Food is essential every 1.5 hours. We must eat a lot to get to Canada. Our shapes are changing as well as our weights.
We are in the foothills of the Sierra with pines, junipers, oak and still the occasional cactus. The smells, colors and sounds feed us everyday. In Chinese medicine the 5 senses are actual sources that feed our essences - the stuff that we are made from. It is definitely proving true to DG and TC. In fact, if you asked DG she would say that what keeps her going everyday; what motivates her and energizes her; what inspires her are those tiny brilliant flowers doing what flowers do...receive the sun when it is shining, sway or shake when the wind blows, bounce when the rain falls. So simple. DG is trying hard not to squish any of them.
Yesterday the wind went somewhere else. After a full day and a half of gale force winds TC asked DG to stop asking the wind to "bring it". Please stop saying to the wind "Is that all you got?" DG agreed and within moments the wind stopped. Honestly, this really happened. DG was a tad frightened when she realized she just might be a powerful sorceress. She eyed her surroundings, taking it all in. From now on she would have to put a lid on her hysterical exuberance provoked by inclement weather. She would keep her lips shut tight and maybe later hire herself out as a weather.consultant - weather maker.
Last night we camped at 8,000 ft and saw the most amazing storm forming. It was miles away so we were not worried until we went to bed and the wind started gusting and rain started whipping. DG's lips were tightly closed. You NEVER want to be on a pass in a storm. Fortunately the weather passed quickly and DG bit her tongue as "Is that all you got" slipped out.
Today is May 23rd and we have arrived at Kennedy Meadows. Let's just say that trail angel houses were more efficiently run than this business. They could be making a lot of money if they were more organized and prepared. Apparently they go shopping everyday because the number of hikers passing through is overwhelming, and way too early. Damn that Cheryl Strayed and her book "Wild". Everyone wants to hike this path. Just today they bought 50 pints of Ben and Jerry's and it will be gone by tomorrow. Hiker hunger is a terrible thing but if considered thoughtfully could make someone a lot of money. Seventeen hundred hikers are expected to pass through. There is one washing machine and one dryer. DG and TC may be waiting all day to wash their clothes. They have all day. How fortunate. The 2 outdoor showers are cold and we are camped in a junk yard. The grill is all about BURGERS. DG had two patties on her burger but the quality was a 4 out of 10. She loved every bite. Starving people cannot be picky.
Kennedy Meadows population is 200 people except for a couple of months ( now) when it surges to 300 a day. This general store is a mom and pop owned store with a lot of family involvement when they are not shopping. I don't know where I am but people on motorcycles appear to be stopping here along with fully loaded jeeps. I think they sell gas here but at this moment the gas pump is being overhauled or torn down. So other people know about this and come to drink and smoke. It's extremely lively. I must praise the owners for their big hearts : they cooked us a spread of chilli and hot dogs with all the fixings after the grill had closed and no one was leaving the outdoor patio. DG had just eaten and she found herself standing in line waiting for more food. A tip jar was placed by the food. I was grateful for such a kindness... feeding hungry people ...so thoughtful. DG never forgets someone who feeds her. Food and love are synonymous. She can feel the knowing smiles of all who know her well. She thanks you for all the love.
So this place is interesting. Some might call it redneck. DG and TC call it heaven. Thank you for being here Kennedy Meadows. Bless you for all the Ben N Jerry's shopping trips. No one here has an MBA in business just a PHD in kindness.
It snowed in the Sierra while it was raining and hailing on us so some people tried to hike into the Sierra and were turned back. They were unprepared. DG and TC are prepared but they have a five day window before the next storm. Giddy up. BRING IT!!!
This only one storage area
What a delightful update on your trip - as previously posted I am continually adding to a journal of pix and prose -what an enormous compendium this will be when yoir trek is completed. TC will be pleased to note that her nephew Jamie graduated last night - a nice ceremony! Karen & Dave are heading to Wild Basin tomorrow to turn on water, maybe fix leaks and get things ready for Summer.
ReplyDeleteLots of love & encouragement --- Dad
I just looked at your next leg of this journey. Going all the way up to 13,000 feet at Forester Pass. I hope much of the snow has melted out for you since the last snow report on May 16th. I will give you a Wild Basin snow report next week. Love, Karen
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