The carved out trail.
Yesterday (8/23) was about a 15 mile day but we were all a bit extra tired because we descended into hot and humid and the path was uneven most of the day. We all chose the scenic variation of the PCT which led us beside Eagle Creek. Included in this once in a lifetime package was Tunnel Falls, and a "Grand Canyonesque" skinny gorge that literally took our breaths away. The bridges over the gorge matched it in skinnyness allowing only one person passage at a time. The walls were so steep that most of the valley floor was inaccessible. People, being people, had carved a few precarious paths down, probably on their butts and lived to regret it. There did not seem to be any Army Corps engineered paths down to the river/creek (what is the difference between a river and a creek? Is it just in the naming process or what?). There was a smaller falls called Punch Bowl which displayed a sign prohibiting diving. Really? It must have been over a hundred feet high and the bowl part looked more like a cereal bowl than the Hollywood Bowl. Only the brainless would dare to jump. FC is a jumper by nature but is proud to include herself in the category, "with brain". The water looked so inviting but was so far away. It was Saturday when we descended and so we saw a lot of people climbing up to see the big Tunnel Falls. For them it would have been a 12 mile round trip. It was hard to breath in their detergent/spray-on sunscreen/insecticide odors. We won't even get into what passes for perfumes and colognes. We felt especially sorry for the out of shape dogs being dragged up in 80 degree weather. Their tongues were purple and touching the ground. I didn't care about the out of shape people dragging up their enormous guts and butts...just the animals. People hiked up in sandals carrying up 12 oz bottles of water and nothing else. They obviously did not read the bulletin at the trail head which instructed people on what ten essentials to bring. They were not even close to even one of the required items. There were some extraordinary clumps of beautiful, perfectly coiffed people who looked like they had just jumped off of a Vogue cover spread. Hollywood replicas of perfection. FC was partially delirious at this point, singing sailor songs and pretending to be from England, greeting everyone with a strong cockney accent. She does some strange things to entertain herself but it seems to work.
We FINALLY reached the bottom and TC, FC, and Princess entered the water. TC and FC immersed totally, Princess stuck her feet in. Mr. Sandals seems to have an eversion to water or he may be too self conscious of his stick-like body. He was thin to start out with and now he is beyond thin. His mind and resolve are so strong it's a bit frightening and yet admirable. What to do? We give him unwanted advice often. He is still walking and completely uncomplaining. He is polite in refusing our advice. He is a quiet man, as I have stated before, in fact, if he doesn't like you he won't talk to you. He is an easy man to love because there is not one iota of bullshit in him. I've never met anyone like him. What you see is what you get; no artiface, no people pleasing, calm and secure, painfully honest, an absolute rock of stability. If he lets you in you can feel the depth of his emotions. He is not loose with his emotions but he can and does emote. Fire Princess, emotional, emotive, loud, funny, also honest and determined is his perfect match. She warms up his metallic nature and creates a wonderful space for him to explore his other silly, crazy side. It is wonderful to see their love for each other deepen and grow. They have only been together for three years but their relationship is solid and probably one of those mandated by heaven. Did I mention his photographs are out of this world stunning? He takes pictures for himself. He is not interested in getting published or becoming famous. He could be famous. His eyes see things differently than most people and that is what makes him so special. I will include his blog at the end of this entry so that you can see his pictures. pct2014.wordpress.com
Climbing for ripe blackberries.
We arrived in Cascade Locks by 3:00pm and checked into a Best Western Plus. TC and FC are determined to rest and not do too much. This is the town to do it in because it is so small. Yes, there is a newly opened micro- brewery, yes, there is a place to get decent coffee. There are three motels and one or two decent restaurants. The locks are gone because a dam was built down river but there are remnants of it and a lovely, green marine park to play on and camp on.
Our ultimate treat to ourselves was to go to the Bonneville Hot Mineral Springs Spa, across the Columbia river in Washington. We paid Shrek, a trail angel to drive us there. Princess, FC and TC enjoyed the 50 meter pool and the various jacuzzis inside and outside. The building was another one of those sacred spaces, built by a Russian guy who believed in the healing powers of the waters. Grandiose and splendid. One gets the feeling that corners were not cut and money was not being saved while this place was being constructed. Objects made with quality materials are beautiful because quality itself is an attribute that offers only the purest of intent. Quality objects feel and look eternal. The effort it takes to create the highest quality of work has to be motivated by something that is pure and perfect.My La Sportiva boots are not quality boots.
Some may consider opulence unnecessary. There are starving people in the world, there are people who live on cardboard or in tin shacks. Why not spend $ on these necessary, practical needs? Sometimes beauty has a price and it is worth it.
Mr. Sandals abstained from the baths and stayed in the hotel stitching up his threadbare shirt that must last until Canada. He lives in a cardboard box in Germany.
Washington here we come. We are at mile mark 2155. Manning Park is mile 2669. The end of our walk. Yippee!
Love the commentary on visitors to Tunnel Falls as well as descriptions of other Falls and Pools. What a pleasure to read about your treat to the Bonneville Resort. I recall watching the Bonneville Dam construction under way in 1939 (really long time ago!) --- Dad
ReplyDeleteChecked out Mr. Sandals photos as you suggested and agree he takes terrific photos.
ReplyDeleteThanks for your kind and well chosen words about Mr. Sandals. I couldn't have said it any better. Oh my God, I'm so in love with that guy.
ReplyDelete(Please excuse any grammatical incorrectness, but English is not my first language)
What did Twig say when she saw FC reaching for the elusive blackberry? "She is so cut! She ought to enter a contest!" "Yes, I said. She already had the most beautiful back I've ever seen on someone I actually knew... " good for you both for being so fit in your bodies and hearts (ok, brains too to not jump) to hike this amazing trail. TC, great photos!! Onward!
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