Ashland 7/31

Mile 1699. On July 30th. Yippee. 

Princess & Mr. Sandals at the border. 

Just a mile later....

Tea while waiting out our 1st rain storm. 

"Proncess fire" 1/2 hour after she repoted it. 

Here we are in Ashland. We did 66miles in three days. Reaching the Oregon border was dramatic for Firecracker and Tidy Camper. FC arrived there a few minutes before TC and began to cry. She couldn't let go completely because there were 2 people watching her arrival and eating lunch. They probably did not have a breakdown so she had to restrain hers.   Crying felt appropriate. We have all worked hard to get here, harder than we expected. TC cried before the actual sign so she was all cried out. Mr. Sandals and Princess came up next. They held each other and it was Mr. Sandals who shook with sobs. Princess whispered German into his ears. He has lost a lot of weight but will not quit. Before long TC and FC joined in the tears. It was a touching moment for everyone involved. Next up was Tortuga. He ran to the sign and was all smiles. We had now finished with our breakdowns. Moments after we entered Oregon everything changed. Thunder clouds gathered, it began to rain a bit. The day was humid and muggy. We walked through forests on soft pine covered paths. We still had to climb in the heat but there was shade in the trees. At one point we rounded a corner and a few miles away saw a fire. Tortuga phoned his daughter, the fire info dispatcher and further down the trail Princess was on the phone calling 911. Her confidence and boldness are so big that eventhough English is not her first language she did not feel intimidated by taking things into her own hands. FC sat on a log eating raisins. Mr. Sandals was taking pictures of the fire and Princess talking on the phone. TC was holding the maps for Princess to read road names and other location info. We named this particular fire the Princess fire. We continued walking and the skies opened up and blessed us with rain. We sat under a tree and had some tea. The storm passed us by quickly but we heard lots of thunder and lightening. The next corner we rounded we saw two more fires. There was a bit of air traffic (helicopters and planes) assessing the fires. Every corner we turned fires appeared. By the time we had reached our campsite we had counted 7 fires. Across from where we pitched our tent three fires were blazing.

Our campsite with 3 fires visable. 

Rainbow from our perch. 

Tortuga's campsite without tent. Using our "chrome domes". 

     Oregon was on fire and we were in the middle of it. From our campsite we watched the incredible lightening show. Princess took a video and caught some live lightening bolts. All of the fires had been started by these electrical wonders igniting dry trees. We did not feel that we were in immediate danger. Tortuga was with us and after working for the forest service for 30 years or more he knew a lot about fires and the protocols for putting them out. Princess wondered why the helicopters stopped flying after a certain time eventhough the area was still on fire. Tortuga said that helicopters were not allowed to fly at night. Princess and Mr. Sandals told us that helicopters fly at night in Germany. Hmmm. The area the lightning was hitting happened to be the direction we were going. We found out the next day that a number of people were running and dodging the mighty blots. Moxie said she was running from tree to tree. Glitter did the same thing - he waited for a break and ran across open fields to hide in the trees. Owen found Kat huddled by a tree trembling and sobbing in fear. She was terrified. Meanwhile we are on the other side enjoying the show, whooping it up and taking videos. Same event, different perspectives. Princess said this was her best day on the trail. Mr. Sandals enjoyed it because it was exciting and dramatic. TC said it was her best day. FC could not commit to any opinion due to fatigue induced brain fog but as we hoped and imagined everything changed in Oregon. Everything got better on a number of levels except that Oregon seems to be on fire (we read in the newspaper that there were 37 fires started by the lightning).The 9:00 to 5:00 firefighters are on it. Should we be worried? Now we have heard that Northern Ca. Is also starting to burn. 

       

Climbing Everest 7/29

Mt Shasta   We go all around it. 

Today we climbed 7,340 ft. The first 5 hours were steep. FC thought she was climbing Everest without the snow. We started hiking at 4:30am to avoid the heat which worked until about 12:30 and then it was 90 degrees and we still had another 1,500 ft. Both TC and FC had sweat pouring under their sunglasses. We needed a herd of cows to lick us dry. We hiked 21 miles and quit at 6:00. For some people it was dangerously hot. Sideways turned beet red and almost dropped. One Speed took her GIARDIA medication on an empty stomach, climbed a few thousand feet and thought she might quit the trail altogether she felt so sick. TC did well considering there was very little water. After Hat Creek Rim she made an attitude adjustment and has been better in the heat. It helps that for the first time in a month she has a pair of shoes that fit her and don't cause pain. 

        We stopped for lunch at a beatiful spring and before long there were about 18 hikers sitting under some huge shade trees cooling off and waiting for the heat to dissipate. It didn't do that. It just got hotter. At least 100 miles away Mt.Shasta commanded the sky drawing puffy cumulus clouds to its summit. It looked like a plume of smoke came out of its snout and turned into a line of clouds that looked like the Starship Enterprise. Seriously. Those clouds may be hiding UFOs after all. The skies above us were mainly  clear and blue. There was the occasional cotton candy cloud build-up but everything eventually drifts toward Shasta.

Trying to get water from tiny spring with Princess & Mr. Sandals. 

      So, we are still roasting and nothing  is getting easier but tomorrow we finally enter the state of Oregon. Everyone is so excited. We now have less than a thousand miles to go and have gone over 1,700 miles. FC is anticipating miraculous weather changes and a landscape you can roller skate through (only in her dreams). TC is anticipating 30 mile days and water fountains every mile which is unlikely since we haven't even done 25 miles yet and the water won't be coming out of fountains.Oregon, beckons like the promised land. This weekend we will take a few days in Ashland. Buy something new and come visit and show us your new purchase. 

      Before I forget, the Marble Mtns. which we finished yesterday in Seiad are famous for having more variety of conifer trees than any other place in California or maybe even the United States. One type of tree has branches that point downward and pine needles that point upwards. The tree looks like it is growing towards the ground. FC thinks they look like the regal gown worn by queens at their coronations. TC calls them feather trees. Tall trees adorned with layered feathers. Some of these trees I have never seen before. They are exotic.

6 people in the king cab. (Back seat) 10 total in cab. A new record. 

Packed in there 

      Yesterday we arrived by truck (remember the cheating) by 1:30 and spent the day on the RV park's big green lawn shaded by big bubba trees. We ate and drank and did little else. It was 103 degrees. The town has a post office, grocery store and small cafe all lined up in a row. The RV place is in the same line. Everyone likes us because we spend our money there. TC now drinks shakes and smoothies when in town. FC is inconsistent but always in search of something good. She is not ordering well. She ordered a BLT that came highly recommended by 3 people. NOT. Should have had the burger. TC stays safe with shakes. 

Pizza party on lawn at Siaed sponsored by Tortuga. 

      FC does not have giardia. In fact, now she is constipated. She hasn't pooped in a couple of days. Her abdominal pain is not completely gone but it is mild. The malaise has passed and her appetite is good again. She prefers the constipation to running into bushes but we will update you. Glitter our fellow hiker does have the bug. He took some gigantic horse pill to start the cure. Good night.

Leaving sweet Etna 7/26-27

Wine on the veranda at Alderbrook Manor with Carolyn Biddick. 

Front porch. 

Breakfast at the B&B. 

Yesterday we left one of our favorite towns. The population is only 725 people but they have their own brewery (good food and beer) a coffee cafe, a deli, a decent restaurant where the same lady has been baking pies for 30 years, a bakery open at 6:00 am serving fresh from the oven apple slippers, donuts, fruit turnovers, a motel owned and cleaned by the owners,a beautiful old Victorian B&B, a library and small museum, a decent sized grocery store, one police officer with a small police station. A number of these businesses are run by young people who grew up in Etna and came back after college to live and work. Kids who want to return home to a tiny town, now that's novel. We stayed at Tortuga's one night, the Motel Etna one night and the Alderbrook B&B the final night. We checked the menus at all 5 eatery's. They each had a unique flavor. At Tortuga's we got to visit with people and eat tasty food. Motel Etna was clean, quiet and comfortable and the showers were bomber (lots of hot water with powerful flow. The Aldernbrook's owners were so hospitable and friendly. Their house was spotless and tastefully decorated. FC took a delicious bath in their deep old fashioned claw foot tub! The farewell breakfast was outstanding. FC ate the best bacon she has ever eaten. This breakfast lasted them most of the day. Not much else was needed. 

     Etna welcomed PCT hikers and were genuinely glad to serve them. If you are ever in the neighborhood stop by. You won't be sorry. It was here we enjoyed the company of Carolyn Biddick. She was our personal chauffeur in this small town. We refused to walk and her car is so sleek and shiny. People probably thought we were casing the town for the Mafiosa. We mainly drove from eating place to eating place. 

Ford Fusion Hybrid. 

       Carolyn drove us to the trailhead after our gigantic breakfast. We hiked 15 miles with Shasta making stunning appearances. We are enjoying this section more than any other since Donner Pass. We have walked through the Trinity's, Shasta National Park and the Marbles. The Marbles are white shiny rock that can be blinding when you walk by them. It feels remote but it is a popular hiking place as evidenced by all the weekend warriors we talked to. The mountains weave into each other dreamily and there are plenty of lakes to cool down in. TC and FC dipped into Fischer Lake where they saw water salamanders (newts). Fern Toes picked one up and we examined it. They look like over mature tadpoles with legs and a red belly. Swimming salamanders. This was a first for FC. 

FC swimming with newts in Fisher Lk. 

Another look at Shasta. 

Marble Mt. 

Marble magic. 

And more. 

      While in Etna FC had some intestinal cramps. She kept eating (of course) not thinking much of it. It continued on their first day of hiking into the Marbles. On the second day she had diarrhea...bad diarrhea. She said it was like pissing through her rectum. Real liquid with a yellow color and some bits and pieces. She had a bit after breakfast, then she ate lunch and exploded. Once more and that was it. First thought was the dreaded GIARDIA. Now she was on a mission to find out. She knew someone who might be able to answer her questions. This was a woman who had GIARDIA but she was way ahead and FC didn't think they would catch up. She hiked by will power because she felt weak, had belly cramps, no appetite, and it was 87 degrees. She didn't want to eat because she didn't want to continue shitting. She made herself do 22 miles but a miracle occurred before that, she ran into One Speed, the woman with GIARDIA. FC sat down and asked a million questions. FC has the medication for GIARDIA but she didn't want to take it unless it was that protozoal demon. She decided to wait it out until the next day. That night she managed some ramen noodles and crackers. Before that she had an apple, kept well hydrated and drank lots of electrolytes. There was no more diarrhea that night. One of the aggravating foods to this organism is dairy. FC's bouts occurred after eating dairy so she figured that if she could eat dairy she didn't have the bug. Today (July 28) she awoke feeling OK but yesterday she awoke feeling OK so she was cautious. Breakfast was PB and J oatmeal (no dairy ) then 2 hours later tuna with mayo (no dairy). She was holding steady. Lunch was a mountain house chicken dish. She ate it but she didn't love it. Still no diarrhea. After lunch we were to do a roadwalk (6 miles) but Tortuga came by and picked us up (10 people in his truck). WE CHEATED. The temperature was over 100 degrees and the asphalt was broiling. We cheated gladly. We didn't even think twice. TC might not have made this grueling hike. So now we are camping in Seiad Valley at the RV park. FC decided to be brave and test the dairy hypothesis. She drank some of TC's milkshake. No diarrhea. Then she had a BLT and fries and more of TC's second milkshake. As of this moment her gut is feeling ok. Slight whispers of cramps but no diarrhea. She hasn't had a bowel movement today. She's fine with that. Whew!! 

Newt in the hand of Ferntoe. 

Puffy stuff. Goats Beard. 

Grinder Creek. 

Etna 7/23

Trail Angels: Georgia & Bat Shit Crazy Mama. 

Who knows where Etna is? Near Yreka and Ashland and Highway 3? That's where we are. We are staying at Tortuga's house. He and his wife (Batshit Crazy Mama) have opened their home to a number of hikers and we lucked out. We have not seen Tortuga for weeks and we met him on the trail today. He offered us his home and to slack-pack with us tomorrow. That means we leave all our stuff at his house and take enough for a day hike. We'll do 20 tomorrow then take the next day off in Etna. Our friend from Samta Cruz (Carolyn Biddick), is zooming up here to see us in her new car. Fun, and more fun. Our other friends Judy and Nikki came up in their new RoadTrek. Lynn Humann came up in her newly renovated Sprinter to test out her dogs and van. Please buy something new and pop up to see us. It's not a pre-requisite but it is a trend. 

Angle food. Strawberry and Unicorn digging in.

Firecracker gets to play Tortuga's guitar. 

     Yesterday was cool and overcast. Clouds were hovering, stacking, floating, collecting, and bumping into each other. Snow white clouds piled on top of Mt. Shasta. They looked like down comforters layered around her. People on Shasta would be experiencing wetness, chilliness and tranquility. It's quiet in the clouds.

 

Strawberry & Unicorn. Sisters from Seattle. 

Our daily Mt. Shasta nestled in protective clouds

    On July 22 we hiked until 7.00pm and pitched our home (23miles) The winds howled all night and TC thought she heard our poles being eaten and dragged away. Her imagination works overtime at night. FC heard nothing.

Stormy night. 

Dramatic morning. 

Cool hiking. Yeah!

 

Catching a rest when you can. 

 Our direction for the day had been circuitous. We travelled east, west, and south. Not much north. FC didn't care; the hiking was easy. There wasn't a lot of sweating or heavy breathing, just a lot of traversing at a high altitude. TC complained of not knowing which direction we were going in. She felt a bit lost with all the circling. FC had to remind her that all these miles count towards Canada, even when they are pointed in the opposite direction.

Firecracker's bee sting. 

      The horsefly and deer fly extravaganza only happened in that one place near The Sierra Buttes. FC is convinced that all the horseflies in the universe spawn from that place. The newest challenge is that when we eat we are besought by wasps and stingy things. We eat smelly things like egg salad or tuna or fancy hot aromatic dehydrated food. FC thinks the insects are lovers of fat, meat or protein. We'll sit down for lunch and by the time we are ready to eat we are swarmed by buzzing carnivores.Just another gift  for FC from the great beyond. While gently swatting away one wasp or hornet or something else with one hand she was stung on the middle finger of the other innocent resting hand. She said a few words and watched her hand swell up. The predictability of sting sequela somehow comforts her. First the swelling and stabbing pain. She felt like she was being stung over and over throughout the day. Then there is the itching. TC didn't fare so well with her ankle sting in the itching stage. She dug a hole in it and now there are slow healing scars. FC is quite cocky about her ability to not itch. She has had alot of practice with her fabulous poison oak episodes. Somehow pain or discomfort predictability soothes FC. She knows what to expect. No big deal. Three days later there is still some swelling. It's to be expected

Tortuga & Pokeman. 

       Yesterday, July 24, we hiked with Tortuga and PokiMan. PM is a 71 year old retired Etna elementary school teacher who taught all three of Tortuga's now fully grown up daughters. One is an MD in Napa, one is a hot shot (special kind of firefighter), and the other is a pregnant firefighter dispatcher. All three got athletic college scholarships in three different sports. Quite an accomplished family I'd say. They had a fabulous grade 4 teacher (PokiMan) whose two daughters are also amazingly talented. One is the CEO of Nintendo in Seattle and the other is a special Ed. Teacher who teaches severely disabled children. Maybe Etna is the place to raise children. 

Misty morning. 

Angel wings

45 degree morning. Love the light!

     So we hiked 20 miles with a daypack on and now we are spoiled. It makes a difference to be a 110 pounds while hiking as opposed to 140 or 150 pounds. This of course is on a 110 body frame. 

      Yesterday we saw Shasta in the clouds and this morning while hiking with the boys we were in the clouds. The mist was cool and peaceful. FC had wanted to be in those clouds surrounding Shasta and she got to experience it today. She calls them vapors of heaven; veils of GOD. You can see she is still a tad nutz.

 We had fun laughing and singing with Tortuga and PokiMan. PokiMan was born in Dunsmuir (near Mt. Shasta) so FC plied him with questions about the St. Germain Society. These are the people who believe that Mt. Shasta has people living under it or in it. He couldn't answer much because he wasn't a member and they are a secret society. He said that growing up he mainly made fun of them. They own some of the prime property around Shasta, property with hot springs on it, valuable property. They are a religious group who believe black and red are the devils colors so they don't wear them. FC didn't find out much but she is intrigued and will keep searching. She believes they might know something she doesn't, which really isn't saying much.

      Shasta is still largely visible from certain vantage points. Tortuga says will still be seeing it in Oregon which is only about 6 hiking days away. FC looks at it a lot hoping to gain power and insight from it.

Now we have 1606 miles completed. 

Our daily shot of Shasta. 

     FC and TC took a dip in the warm waters of Lake Payne on their slack-packing day. The lakes since entering Shasta have been warm and swimable. FC is loving this. TC is getting better at getting into lakes with mucky bottems but it makes her a little jumpy. She refuses to open her eyes in the water. She is afraid to see anything in there so she rarely puts her head under and when she does her eyes are tightly shut. That does not make for a relaxing swim. FC has to open her eyes because she doesn't like swimming blind. She appearsextremely comfortable in water, especially lake water. Nobody knows this but when she is swimming and looking down into the depths she is a bit scared that some unknown creature (something like the Loch Ness monster could come up and swallow her. This fear is not grounded in any previous reality but when she swims her eyes are constantly scanning for large shadows. To see her swim you would think she is part fish. She looks so comfortable gliding through the water. Just remember she is always scanning.

Carolyn Biddick & her new car. 

       We got a lift to Motel Etna after the hike and were greeted by Carolyn in her shiny new black Ford Fusion Hybrid. We were happy to see her. She had brought a ton of fruit from Santa Cruz and we began devouring it immediately. A week ago FC was thinking she was getting scurvy. Her gums hurt and she was expecting her teeth to fall out at any second. She thinks fruit is the answer. She probably had a toothbrush injury but scurvy is what popped into her head. We'll keep an eye on her teeth just to make sure they are staying in her mouth.

     Today, July 25, we will take a rest day with Carolyn. We haven't decided what to do yet but the possibilities are endless... we have wheels. Maybe we will revisit the town of Shasta to get a soul path reading; maybe will will go for a swim in Lake Taylor; we will not be hiking.

Still July 21

Another lovely spring. Cold and delicious. 

What a fabulous day this has been. There  have been no huge climbs or descents. We've been traversing hills all day. Most of all the temperature has been perfect, even cold at times. Davis the friend we stayed with in Weed kept raving about this part of the trail and initially when FC heard him she thought he might be biased or slightly exaggerating. Well Davis, you were right FC and TC are loving this. They hiked up to Porcupine Lake and while FC swam naked with the fish, TC soaked her feet. FC is now in direct communion with Shasta. She feels the presence of that mountain even when she can't see it. Everything all the weirdos in this place say about Mt. Shasta might be true. FC is coming back. The lakes are warm, and mainly deserted. A sacred mountain, warm lakes, and a health food store. Perfect.

       FC heard a trail name today that she loves. It's not hers and she's not stealing it but...someone's name is Masshole. He is from Massachusetts. People from Vermont and Conneticut call tourists from  Massachusetts "Massholes". It is a derogatory name but everyone seems OK with it. FC definitely likes it.

      Today we ended up getting rain, wind and thunder clouds. All in all a stellar day. We put in our 20 miles but were cut short by the weather. Our new tent kept us dry. We stopped at 6:00 ish, unheard of in the last few weeks. 

First use of TCs cuben fiber space poncho. 

     Here is a sample of some new trail names that have passed us by: Why Not, married to Balance, Blanca, Young Oak(handsome young Frenchman), Free refill (a crazy German)), Iceman travelling with Snowman, Slo Bro, Baggins, Cheese(loves cheese), Soap box, Pedicure, Firestarter, Dust Devil, Iron Mike (had to go to urgent care for fluids. Got way dehydrated), Hemlock, Peru, Soft Egg (given to him by Free Refill because he thought he was a wus and wouldn't push himself mileage wise) Kaiser (this is how he would pronounce the Caesar of a Caesar salad) Off The Rails, And more. We are stil being passed dAily by new people. The only two people we have passed were slightly disabled. We are getting faster but so is everyone else and they were faster to begin with. 

      One short happening to leave you with : FC was walking with her poncho on. She had her hood on since it was raining. She stopped suddenly on the trail because she heard some voices in the valley below her. She turns around expecting to see TC, instead she sees a young man with a blond patchy beard, eyeglasses and a lovely long deep forest green poncho on. FC's poncho is very short. She looked into his eyes not startled or afraid and said, "I hear voices down there". He replied in an unrecognizable accent (too few words to discern),"I hear them also", and that was it. FC moved aside and let him pass. His eyes were so peaceful and welcoming. FC did not know him but she felt intimately connected to him. Like he was every person she had ever loved. TC was there too but she was behind the young man. As she looked at him questions started to form  like what was his name and where was he from but they were so unnecessary. In that one calm instance she recognized all eyes in his eyes. 

On the Trail Again 7/20

Castle Crags

Big Walls of the Crags. 

We lived through the night. Firecracker let the implications of SAG wash over her. It was 10:20 pm and there was nothing she could do at that moment. She closed her eyes and went to sleep. The implications went to sleep with her. There are many ways she can handle this. She could take to her bed and not get up. Cover her head because the task is too big and it is hopeless; to stop this inevitable slide into the destruction of this living planet. If the planet gets sicker we will get sicker. Look around, it seems to be happening. She could get off the trail and find out everything she needs to know about chemtrails and start doing something or, she can finish this job, enjoy it, and deal with chemtrails and their implications in October. She lived  through the night. That's encouraging. 

The dreaded chemtrails

      Today, July 20 we climbed in 90 degree weather for about 4,200ft. Sweat dripped off of us non-stop for 8 hours. Davis dropped us off at 7:20 and by 3:00 we were on our backs, feet up on a log sleeping across the trail. The heat had slayed us. We slept for 30 minutes undisturbed by any other hikers stepping over us. It was an emergency sleep that allowed us to continue walking. When we reached 4,500 ft the temperature dropped by 25 degrees and the wind picked up. We had heard thunder before our nap but no rain. We had not felt a cool  breeze like this since the Sierra, maybe since the John Muir trail section. It was so welcomed by us. 

What are these crazy plants: California Pitcher Plant. 

     We made camp by 7:30 ish and put up our new free standing Black Diamond Mesa tent. It will stand up to the potential downpours of the Pacific Northwest. It is roomier and feels exceptionally stable unlike our baggy, floppy, Z tent.The Z tent is designed after your basic boyscout pup tent. Not recommended in wind.

Shasta still there. 

   It's now July 21. We woke up to a sky filled with chem trails. More than we have ever seen. FC is confused, angry, sad, incapacitated. Nothing constructive or positive will emerge from this chaotic state of mind and emotions so she will wait until the mud settles and she can see and breath more clearly. She definitely needs more information and space to gain a perspective that is not based on fear, panic, and ignorance. Meanwhile we will hike and enjoy this incredible environment that knows nothing about chemtrails. The one thing FC is sure of is that in the end the planet  will survive, not the humans and that gives her great solace and peace. 

       So far the temperature has been in the 60's. Hallelujah ! We are once again hiking in comfortable weather. I do believe  we have no complaints today. 

Nice teaser lake. To far down.  

       I have noticed how our optimism soars in the morning. We are ready for anything. By late afternoon or sometimes early afternoon that can change depending on the many  variables that form our days but mornings are the best. In the morning we are sure we can accomplish our set mileage and more. Usually it's never more. Today is one such ebullient day where we think 25 miles is in the cards. We 'll get back to you on that.

      We are so grateful for all the encouragement and excitement you guys bring and send to us. Knowing you are with us inspires is to keep going. Thank you a million times.

White Ridge Spring

     Today Mt. Shasta is buried in clouds. Looks like they are all in session, convening a summit meeting to discuss the craziness of humans and what should be done about them. Do they really think they can control the weather and live ? Do they think they are in control? The clouds change colour in anger. Shasta rumbles deep in her depths. They commiserate, the clouds and the mountain, even as trails of chemicals pierce their vapors. "0h these crazy humans"!