Tendering 10/1

Sunrise. 

We walked around Astoria for a few hours finding an organic vegetarian eatery and cafe. Caroline bought a pair of boys shorts. Apparently she wears boys clothes now because they fit her perfectly. They are not men's clothes. They are considerd youth size. Imagine getting older yet reverting to youth sizes. The one drawback of finishing the PCT then Immediately getting on a cruise ship is the clothing issue - FC and TC only had the clothes they had been wearing for six months which are inappropriate cruise wear. On their one day in Vancouver they shopped. TC was successful buying purple Sketchers, a pair of Roots jeans, and found 2 shirts at a thrift store. FC was not so lucky. In five hours she found one pair of jeans. She went to all the wrong places then she ended up at the Hudson's Bay company (the Canadian equivalent of Macy's). She went directly to the youth section and tried on every pair of jeans finding a perfect fit. What she really wanted was a pair of shorts but Vancouver is into winter sales now. The next town, Seattle, the Bub's went to the famous Pike's Market and when they got hungry, ate at a Thai restaurant. They met the "boys" again and were told to go to Storybook Cafe for the best coffee in town. FC and TC split up. TC returned to the boat and FC walked around downtown Seattle. She did not find any clothes or shoes but was only loosely looking. She saw things she didn't need, pretty, expensive sweaters. She tried on one top and realized this shopping was without a goal and she immediately headed to the boat. She hated mindless consumerism. The Norwegian Pearl had shops with 2 thousand potential shoppers. Everytime FC walked by the shops were busy. She just kept walking. In Astoria she finally found a pair of boys jean shorts and a pair of running shoes in JC Penneys. No sales person knew anything about the shoes so she is uncertain if the Nikes she bought are actually running shoes. She has only ever bought running shoes from a running store. The shorts were $4.00 dollars on sale. Better than a thrift store. 

 

Tender docking to cruiser. 

     Getting back on the boat took 2 hours. There were complications. Many passengers had opinions on how to fix this waiting dilemma. Their opinions were loud and certain. Everything was wrong and needed to be fixed. We never found out about the complications. We went to the spa and relaxed, shedding every complicated thing in the warmth and peace of thermal therapies.

 

Towel frog!

    This is our last day on the cruise. We dock in LA tomorrow. A lot has happened. FC went to a fitness seminar entitled "How to get a Flatter Stomach". She smiled inwardly as the instructor talked about lifestyle changes which included nutrition, exercise and detox programs. He didn't show one exercise to strengthen abdominal muscles. Brilliant maneuver to get a lot of people into one place, captive, listening to the poor failing state of the earth and where we fit in it. Processed food - bad; organic food good ( none on the ship). Air conditioning bad(all over the ship); big breakfast, small dinner good, most meals on ship big every meal. On and on, we are going to toxic land fast and furious. The bubbies had a test done to determine fluids and fat levels. The results were the best he had ever seen. Janet and Lory's were average. They need to detox but the Bubbies don't need to. Maybe, maybe not. "Good Feet" orthotics were purchased. I won't go into why but you should know FC is a push over when she fails a test. FC and TC waited in line for two hours to climb 2 climbs. If you like standing in line you should sign up for a Norwegian tour. The recreation crew were not into belaying. Our belayer left to go to the library. 

     Tonight we are in the Starligjt Theater for a musical review of Broadway shows. We think Janet and Lory are in the casino gambling.  

Cruising

Norwegian Pearl 

Lori & Janet. Our friends & patrons. 

Seattle. Pike Place Market. 

TC selfie. 

Today is 9/30. We have been afloat on this pleasure palace for 2 days. We stopped in Seattle only to meet "the boys" again, this time with the addition of Lighthouse. How likely is this? We meet them in Vancouver and then in Seattle. Today we are in Astoria and we are expecting to see them at any moment. Presently we are waiting in a line of hundreds of people waiting to be "tendered" back to the Motherload. FC had an altercation with man who yelled at her. She didn't know where to stand and he thought she was butting in line. She does not like to be talked to in an angry voice so she pulled an "Oscar Pistorius" and committed culpable manslaughter. Well, she wanted to but instead exchanged words in a restrained manner staring him down. He turned away and she walked to the end of the line. TC knew nothing of this exchange. She often misses the dramatic moments in FC's life. 

RV style room. Bigger than our tent!!

We also have an outside balcony. 

     The boat is nothing like the PCT. There is food available 24 hours a day. It is not high quality food, thankfully, or else our Bubbies would start to look like the majority of people on this cruise...BIG. I think someone should hijack this vessel and put these people through some major remodeling exercises. If you have a weight problem or an eating disorder (ie eat too much) never go on a cruise. NEVER, NEVER, EVER. It's like placing an alcoholic in a vat of wine. It impossible to swim out. 

 

FCs new duds. 

Best friends since childhood. 

    Entertainment (singers, comedians, dancers, musicians, game show hosts, competitions, casinos etc) surround the ship and you can't help bumping into one of them. Silent places (thank GOD) are available. It is possible to retreat but difficult. Janet and the Bubbies head off to the spa for relaxing water therapies ( steam room, saunas, heated ceramic tables, rain forest showers, jacuzzis, a big tub with the most powerful jet action FC and TC have ever encountered. There is a pipe shaped like an upside down U shooting water at your shoulders. It scares a lot of people away but not our three seasoned spa users. FC's teeth move in her mouth when she stands under it. They might fall out but she is willing to risk it. The spa is at the front of the ship so the views are the best. People are supposed to be quiet and usually are but we have discovered it's hard to speak Chinese quietly and there are a lot of Chinese on board. Big men also have a difficult time whispering. Robes, towels, water, tea, coffee, and lounge chairs are available. There is a library and chapel. The bars are quiet in the morning and a good place to relax. So far the Bubbies have not relaxed much. There is hope. There are two days left and I will advise them to make a concerted effort to lie down as though paralyzed. Tonight dinner at 5:30, Second City comedy at 7:30 and bowling afterwards. Relaxing??

 

   In the process of being "tendered". 

 

Vancouver, BC 9/26

Mr. Sandals & FC Loading up in Manning Park for the 4 hour ride. 

Landed in Vancouver. 

We are really off trail now. We are in one of those sleepless cities that hums all night and day and it doesn't matter if the sun goes down there are plenty of lights on. We and the Germans took the Greyhound at 10:00 this morning and arrived in the big city by 2:30. Buses stop a lot. It probably would have taken half the time by car. While FC and TC were snoozing or looking at the forests stream by Princess was planning how to get from the greyhound station to her hotel. She was off and running and knew where to go, almost like she had lived here for years. We all followed her, once again but after the first bus we went our separate ways. The bus went by a district of what appeared to be homeless, toothless people which affirmed that we were in a big city. Passing by China town FC realizes they look exactly the same as the ones she has seen in Toronto and San Fransisco. Unmistakeable open store fronts sprawling onto the sidewalks baring their wares to all. The signs were all in Chinese and certain foods unidentifiable.Our bus driver, a man with a foreign accent was yelling at an emaciated toothless women to hurry up and get off the bus. She had on spiked heels, was gumming a piece of beef and waiting for her companion to give her some money. It was a crazy moment. When TC and FC disembarked, FC's pack got in the way of someone walking his bike on the sidewalk and he swore at her. Re- entry was more of an all out assault on our defenseless nature babies. The smells, perfumes, colognes, bus and car exhaust played havoc on FC's nose which began running immediately. Having grown up in Toronto she was not shocked by any of this but it did not  create calmness and peace in her head or heart. Cities are all about people and their creations.  Any nature found in them seems a bit out of place and a passing thought by some saavy contractor trying to make his building more pleasing and attractive to potential buyers. Even leashed dogs walking down the streets with their owners looks insane. Birds are city birds landing on crumbs and outdoor patio tables scrounging for human left overs. FC saw a crow fly over her head with a large white bag in its beak. These creatures adapt but FC wonders about animal karma; is it better karma to be born in the Sierra or Vancouver? Cities move in and nature moves out. Crazy moves in and serenity moves out. So it goes. 

      We got to our hotel and of course needed to eat food. We travelled no further than downstairs to Moxie's Bar and Grill. The interior was chique and modern and so were the wait staff. Tight fitting, butt hugging sleek black skirts and  towering spiked heels appeared to be the uniform for the stunning young ladies. Talk about eye candy after seeing and smelling nothing but dirty hikers for 6 months. We were in the big city now, not small simple outback cowboy towns. This is where fashion rules and to our nature bumpkins it was better than watching TV. Jus t watching these beautiful people wiping and setting tables, balancing trays of food and being interested in you felt a bit naughty. 

        Along with the shiny glamour cities brings us DELICIOUS FOOD. Moxie's did not disappoint. The cheddar broccoli soup was perfect. TC did her favorite thing and mixed every flavor she could find: coconut something soup with a lettuce wrap of Asian ingredients. FC could not resist trying a hamburger that had the potential of being exceptional. Dessert was sticky toffee pudding! Cities can bring it in the food department.

        After being fed we headed over to the Fairmont Hotel on the pier to meet Lory and Janet, our new travelling mates. We walked. Imagine that! But walking in the city can be exhausting. Just trying to stay alive took up a large part of our attention.

     We finally met our friends Lory and Janet, our new travelling companions, at the Waterfront Fairmont where they surprised us with dual sets of T-shirts and sweatshirts celebrating our PCT hike. They were designed by Lory and custom made. These ladies never stop giving. We had a happy reunion and then we trekked back to our hotel, our eyelids half closed. Late nights are upon us. 

       This hotel was recommended to us by OG, a fellow PCT finisher. We saw them the next morning buying their coffee and pastries at Starbucks. We went down the street to a French Bakery and indulged in lots of butter and milk (lattes and croissants and pastries).some aspects of re-entry don't suck. After our breakfast of desserts we headed over to the Fairmont, our new home for a night. On the way, dressed once again with our backpacks on, we meet Teddy Rose dressed similarily. She will be heading to Seattle to meet with Glitter again. She doesn't have much of a plan. OG and his gang plan to rent a car and drive across the US to the east coast where they live. These 3 young gents will continue their adventure for awhile longer. Our adventure will also continue on the sea.

       We meet Princess and Mr. Sandals for our final dinner with them accompanied with Lory and Janet. We go to Gastown, the old part of Vancouver and enjoy a tasty meal at a restaurant recommended by the concierge. Our goodbyes to Princess and Mr. Sandals are short and sweet. None of us enjoy long wrenching goodbyes. We will keep in touch and meet again. The four of us made it together, along with Tortuga. The commraderie we shared helped us to finish with smiles on our faces and light hearts. We needed each other. 

     

Cityscape from Sandman. 

Puddin', OG, Cheeto at the Sandman Hotel. 

Our new custom T's designed by Lori. With the dates of our start & finish plus our trail name on sleeves. 

In the elevator selfie, with our packs still on. 

Our room at the Fairmont. 

Bathroom with TV in mirror. 

Our final celebratory dinner at Lillie Mays in Gastown. 

Breakfast in the Goldroom. 

Cityscape. 

North Cascades 9/20

Uber Dude with Little Kevin (ducky). The Machine in background. 

      Stehekin Ranch is a destination spot for those who want good food, rustic setting, and quiet.We all left it reluctantly but were excited to hike only 4.5 days. 

   

Mr. Sandals log crossing. 

Our last hundred mile marker. 

Bat Shit Crazy Mama shows up at Rainy Pass with lunch for PCT hikers. Our personal trail angel who will meet us at Manning. The end. 

   Come to Washington in the fall but before the snow hits. This entire trip has been a race to get here before October. The pressure has been on since day one. We have 2 more days to go and today it rained for five hours in the morning. It did not snow but the temperatures dropped. Eventhough we only have another two days anything can happen. The weather forecast predicted rain on Wednesday. Today is Monday. The new forecast 40 percent chance of rain tomorrow, 50 the next day and 90 percent on Thursday. Rain could easily become snow. This morning we heard thunder and lightning, walked in rain and clouds. We went over 2 passes (Glacier and Hart's pass) today. Fortunately we did this in the afternoon and the rain had stopped. Hart's is a pass that people can be blown off of. We are so close to our goal but until we reach Manning Provincial Park anything could abort the mission. Today for example TC leaned on a rock and a rock underneath that just about crushed her foot. She cut the top of her foot but it could have been worse. FC now has some kind of right shoulder pain and she is wondering if the chest strap of her backpack is cutting off circulation to her shoulder and it's now becoming necrotic. Princess has had a cold for about a week and now Mr. Sandals sounds like his lungs are filled with mucous. We are all still walking and now that we are close to the end, we are walking on egg shells. Knowing about the weather in Washington made us run through the desert 5 months ago. It is the oddest thing that we are doing. Relaxation does not enter the picture; not until the end. So for those of you who may be thinking that we have been on vacation for 6 months, think again. We have been having an athletic adventure that has included a lot of sweat, dirt, stench, crazy food, slanted sleeps, thirst, wind, sun, and foot pain. Has it been fantastic? Yes. Have we had fun? Yes. Have our bodies changed? Yes. Would we do it again. NO! Would we recommend others doing it? So far, we have not recommended it to anyone. We are recommending section hiking to everyone who looks at us with those envying eyes. If you want to do it talk to us first. There may be a few people out there who have to do it. 

 

Fall colors. 

Cutthroat Pass

Cutthroat Pass

After the rain. Glacier Pass 

Big peaks & glaciers. my map doesn't reach that far so I don't know the peak. We are traversing at 7000 ft 

Rugged!

Larch tree forest.  It looks like a conifer & becomes golden. 

      We have met some interesting hikers. Vocal is the name of a public accountant from Maine. FC thinks he should just be called Mouth. He is loud and loquacious. He talks until you faint or have blood coming from your ears. FC thinks he is funny. Princess avoids him. TC laughs at him and Mr. Sandals has not commented. He is east coast, swears a lot and has no boundaries. He does not wash and his beard probably has colonies of animals residing in it. You hear him first and the you smell him. He will talk non- stop whether you are listening or not. That is a relief to FC because she doesn't have to respond. That would exhausting. Today we met Lost and Found, someone we had heard about months ago from a fellow hiker. He was constantly losing his poles in peoples' cars. Most recently he has lost his passport two times. Everything comes back to him. He is from Spain and speaks English so fast and with such an accent it is almost unrecognizeable as a language. It sounds more like a game of mouth marbles. Über Babe is a man from Berkeley who wears a dress over his clothes and carries Kevin, a rubber ducky float on his back. Together He and Vocal make an insanely funny team. Uber has been travelling with a young woman from Switzerland named the Machine. 

Sunrise. North Cascades. 

Mt. Baker

Woody Pass. 

        

       As you might have heard from Facebook we have made it!!! We are in Canada, intact. After reaching the monument we still had to walk another 9 miles. FC is saying " It's over" and Princess says "No" and recounts the story of someone breaking their ankle in the last 9 miles last year who had to be helicoptered out. OK. It wasn't over. And then it was. We were met at the trailhead by Bat Shit Crazy Mama which eliminated one mile. Princess, Mr. Sandals and Tortuga finished with us. We travelled through Oregon and Washington with P and Mr.S and Tortuga joined us in Washington for the final push. We were weaving in and out of each other's lives since the beginning but determined that we would all end together. It was bitter sweet because we will now go our separate ways.

      Today, Sept. 25, it is rainy and cold here in Manning, BC. It may be snowing at the higher altitudes but we are warm, dry and safe in our room. Indeed, we made it a day before the dreaded weather. You might recall that when the Bubbies left San Diego back in April, Scout and Frodo sang them a blessing in Hebrew. It seemed spontaneous and not something they did for everyone. FC was certain they would make it after receiving that blessing. The other two motivators for finishing were meeting her friends from Canada at the end of the trip and sending Ziggy and the Bear word that they had made it so they could be included in his book of finishers. It is odd, the things that kept us going. TC wore her lucky bird earrings and a necklace she had bought in Hawaii just for the hike. Again, it is an carving of a bird rising. She wanted to feel like she was flying on the wings of a bird during her hike. 

      It probably will not sink in that the trip is over for a few days. We have had rest days but when that rest exceeds 2 days something will feel different, like our feet and achy joints. I will continue the blog on our re-entry  trip cruising on the Pacific from Vancouver to LA. Our friends in Canada, who agreed to take us back to Santa Cruz decided a cruise would be relaxing and there would be plenty of food. That cruise was also a carrot at the end of our hike. There was no way we would go on that boat without finishing. Now, thanks to our generous and thoughtful friends, our vacation is beginning. Yippee!! Stay tuned to the blog and travel the Pacific with us.

   One other thing, all of you who supported us and read the blog and made comments, you were our daily inspiration. I was planning on journaling but that would have been filled with whining and negativity. Who wants to read that. Having an audience helped me to see everything through different eyes. My deepest gratitude to you all. I have learned so much about writing and I have found my voice. Without you out there listening I could not have done it. 

Our last wet day out. TC. 

We hiked all this way to see this?

Princy & Mr. Sandals happy to be done. 

FC, Tortuga, Princy, TC, & Mr. Sandals  our trail family. 

Done!

Stehekin 9/18

 Princy boarding the bus. 

Where to begin? Let's start with some gloating. Remember that 8,000 ft. climbing day? I forgot to tell you about FC's mission. Princess, Mr. Sandals, TC and FC, Tortuga and Half Mile were headed to a campsite 21 miles away. Princess was worried about getting there in time to secure the site. Captain was going to the same place. He was a young buck(self proclaimed)and he was fast. We saw him at Mica Lake that day.He arrived and we were leaving. FC said the lake was waiting for him to jump in. She figured he would take his time eating and jumping in the freezing cold water. Then she made her mind up to walk as fast as she could to beat him  to the site. She kicked into machine mode and ascended 3,000'ft. in just over two hours, counting the switchbacks in Chinese. Even Princess was behind her. FC did not take a break. She expected to start sprinting if she saw Captain. Princess asked her to stop and wait but FC was on a mission. Princess was ready to camp at 20 miles but not FC. She kept going. TC caught up in the last mile and together they reached the site. Princess arrived 10 minutes later and Mr. Sandals came next. After they had set their tents up Captain came by and said, "Whoa, the retirement community beat me to it." FC smiled wickedly and performed some kind of football high five maneuver. She beat the 27 year old. He of course was unaware of the race, in fact he probably got stoned at the lake and took a nap. This is of no consequence to Firecracker . She wanted the site he was heading for and she got it. There was another site 100 yards down the hill. TC told him about it while FC quietly continued her celebrations.

       Today is 9/18 and we are in Stehekin. What a day we had. Originally we were going to catch the 6.00pm bus to Stehekin but after walking 2 hours and going 5 miles Princess decides she would  try for the 4.00 pm bus. It was raining and we were walking fast to keep warm. We had started at 6:15am because we were worried we couldn't do 19.5 miles by 6:00 and now Princess is proposing 19.5 by 4:00pm. FC calls her nuts. Princess  ignores her and keeps walking. Well, we were doing good time and by 10::30 had done almost 10 miles. We all took a break and for some reason Princess re-checked the bus schedule. Oops. The bus arrived at 3:00 pm not four. She said was still going to try for it. Mr. Sandals was speechless. FC and TC felt the hairs rise on the back of their necks. Here was their most favorite thing - a challenge. A race lead by their fearless leader and general. By golly, if Princess was going to attempt 19.5 miles by 3:00 they too would do it. FC turned to Princess and said she should go on one of those TV reality shows like "Naked and Afraid". Princess said she would kill her partner and eat him over the three weeks. She would be the only contestant to gain weight. This woman may be even more of a freak than FC. She is a born competitor. Competing is first and second nature. She played rugby for ten years with men and women. She knows about pain and the taste of blood. Princess took off and was not seen again until 2:40pm. This is when FC saw her standing on the bridge overlooking the Stehekin River and gorge. She looked spent. She had not believed she would make it. She slumped over the railing. FC told her that the others were close. Even Tortuga had rejoined the group for this final assault on the bus stop. Everyone made it. 19.5 miles by  2.45. We have Princess and her grand unstoppable visions to thank. They are ludicrous and almost impossible to accomplish but her can-do attitude is inspirational, especially to the Bubbies who always step up to any challenge. She may be even more indomitable than they are. Princess is no ordinary woman. She can be quite feminine and demure. Her hiking shirt is pink eventhough she claims to hate pink. She has a lovely pale green scarf that can double as a hood. She is in touch with her feminine side but make no mistake, get in her way and you'll have a broken collar bone.

Hats off to Mr. Sandals who is not competitive and a slow walker- a man who takes a lot of photos and keeps his own pace; a man who cannot be pushed around. He does not easily cave into peer pressure but wordlessly, he made that three o'clock bus. I am not sure why. Princess has had many suitors that she inevitably crushed by the sheer force of her personality. She cannot crush Mr. Sandals. He is her match. He often has the last word. 

       We do thank our fearless leader and appreciate her pace setting skills. Without her where would we be ? 

 

   Stehekin Ranch, in the Northern Cascades,is awesome. Stehekin itself can only be reached by boat, plane or hiking. There is another lodge at the boat landing, a bakery, a school and the Ranch. We are in the tent cabins and therefore have no electricity. The food here is the best we have had. Fruits and vegetables are grow locally. What a beautiful place to rest before our final 4.5 days of hiking. Later today we will move to the Lodge and check out the lake and bakery. The lake is called Chellan. Come here to Shangrilah. There is one 13 mile road and a big red bus that goes back and forth. No traffic hum just the sound of water and wind moving through the trees.

Mr. Sandals. Makes the bus. 

FC tired out. 

Menu at the Stehekin Valley Ranch. 

Drying out the tent on front of our rustic tent cabin. 

FC horseback riding at the Ranch. 

Dining room breakfast at Stehekin Valley Ranch. 

The Bakery. A must bus stop for all visitors.

Dirty hungry PCT hikers line up for sugar. 

Our team chowing down outside the Bakery. 

Ferry leaving for 3+ hrs down Lake Chelan. TCs friend Mary who she met on the bus is on board.

The Lodge. Where we stay tonight. 

FC enjoying her zero day in the city ark by the lake.

        Our day at the other end of Stehekin was relaxing. This was called the Landing & is the town center for a population of 80 residents. We picked up our last 2 boxes and re-packed our packs for the last time. We are sharing a lovely waterfront room with Princess and Mr. Sandals. All I can hear is the wind through the trees and clear waters of Lake Chelan. TC and FC decided to go for one more meal at the Ranch eventhough it entails a half- hour bus ride to get there. You know the Bubbies are all about food. They will go anywhere and pay anything for tasty food. The menu at lodge did not entice them and they have heard some stories about the food here. They will ride the big red bus and take in the sights again. 

Beached boat planter. 

      We have been waiting for the end of this massive hike for the last month and more urgently for the last 2 weeks. It will be over in a few days. Our bodies have changed shape; our faces are more weathered and lined; FC's feet are edematous and don't look like her feet anymore; TC has numbness and parathesia in her feet and her back is rubbed raw; FC is sure her liver blood deficiency is worse because her tendons feel dry and ready to snap. There are more ailments but no need to bore you. Have we changed any other way? That remains to be seen. What does walking 2,660 miles do to your mind and spirit? We will let you know. 

     We will reach Manning Park Provincial Park in BC on Sept. 24th. Please celebrate with us on that day. All of you who have read our blog and supported us with your thoughts and encouragement we want to celebrate with you. So on that day, drink a toast to you and us, go out to your favorite restaurant and eat well, be happy with us. We want to feel that energy. We will be making a toast to you. Thank you. Honestly, it would have been even harder to do without you. 

FC, Mr. Sandals, & Princey waiting for the bus.